Asparagus season is coming...

I know this is a little early, but it's good to be prepared. In a couple weeks it will be time to plant your crowns (the root ball). Whatever you plant this year won't be able to be harvested, but in two years, however, you will be rewarded in early spring with a bonanza of tasty shoots. It's a longer-term investment in the beginning, but the plants are perennial and will live for 15-20 years.

One of the objections I've seen to planting asparagus is that it takes up too much room for a crop that only pops up in the early spring. The remedy to that is to interplant it with strawberries. They both have the same soil needs, and the asparagus won't interfere with the strawberries much, and vice versa. Problem solved.

Asparagus is an interesting plant in that it is either male or female. The technical term for that is dioecious. The male stalks are more productive and live longer, so if you are planting heirloom plants you'll need more than if you get a hybridized all-male variety, or weed out the female plants and put in more males in another year. If you have a smaller space to grow in it might be better in this instance to get a hybrid. One of the very few times I'll say that, actually...

How to plant it

Keep in mind that asparagus prefers full sun, but will tolerate a bit of shade, and they need a lighter, well-drained soil that warms up quickly in the spring. Since any standing water will rot the roots, raised beds are a perfect environment for them. The bed should be dug over with plenty of compost and manure to give the plants a good start.




When you're planting the crowns make the trench 30cm wide (12") and 15cm deep (6") and space the plants 30cm apart. Cover the root balls with 5cm (2") of soil and wet thoroughly. In two weeks add another 5cm of soil. Repeat until there is a slight mound running the length of the trench. Put mulch down to smother weeds.

It takes two years for the roots to fully establish themselves, so water well in that time. After that it's not as necessary.

Let the plants grow fully for the next couple years so that the root systems can grow and establish themselves. On the third year harvest for the first four weeks and then let the rest grow. On the fourth year you can harvest for eight weeks before letting it go. Each plant will produce multiple spears and eventually you will have so much your neighbours will wake up with it stuffing their mailboxes... Spontaneously. Like zucchini.

If frost is predicted cover your spears with cloth or newspaper to protect them from freezing. Use a very sharp knife to slice off the shoots cleanly and evenly at the soil line to reduce infection opportunities.

There are a few types of beetles that like to eat the foliage and mature stems. They can be picked off by hand, or use an insecticidal soap if there is a serious infestation. To reduce the chances of the root ball (crown) rotting keep the soil pH above 6.

From seed

If you're growing them from seed (heirloom) now is the time to start. Plant them in individual pots and put them in a sunny window. Keep the seeds warmer (about 24C, or 77F) until they sprout, and then you can let the temperatures go back to the usual ambient room temperature. I'm assuming here that you keep your house at about 20C.

Put the seedlings into the ground after the last frost date in your area. Around here it's May 24th. By then the plants will be about 30cm (12") tall. Grow them in a temporary bed for the first year, planted at about a depth of 7-8cm (3"), and weed out the female plants if you like. They don't produce as well as the male plants do, and tend to die earlier as they put more energy into seeds.

Transplant the root balls that you plan on keeping to a permanent bed the next spring using the directions above.

Containers

Asparagus can also be grown in containers if they are transported to a slightly warmer location for the winter, like a garage or very cold basement. It's a good option if you don't have a lot of room, or you're renting and don't want to (or can't) put in anything permanent. They really won't be permanent, though, and the cramped conditions will kill off the plants much sooner than if they were allowed to develop a full root system in the ground. But, if that doesn't deter you, find a good, large pot (very large) that allows excellent drainage and go to town. A potato-tower bag would be an excellent solution. Place the crowns about 15cm (6") apart (they won't live long enough for the half-spacing to be an issue).